Saturday, December 17, 2011

メリークリスマス!

Nick,

So there are fewer than 10 days to my personal Californian advent calendar, but I’m trying not to get too excited. If I let myself think about it too much I’ll start packing, and if I start packing I’ll be living out of my luggage next week. Then again, it couldn’t hurt to start packing as 80% of what I’ll be bringing back is omiyage and Christmas presents. With everything I’m bringing I may just have to check my luggage at this point.

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Well, as you pretty much guessed, in between the space of these two paragraphs was all the time it took me to break down and start packing. As of today, I pretty much fit all of my omiyage into one carry-on-able bag, though I cannot yet tell you where I will store my clothes… Maybe I’ll just wear them all onto the plane
1 They tell me that, when in Japan, I should “layer”…
1.

But all of this is fine. I’ll have plenty of time to think about it.

Since finals were last week, we’re all pretty much in a holding pattern. The schedule is generous to the teachers as they have two whole weeks to turn in grade reports. Being the pseudo-repressive Type-A that I am, I had my grade sheets tabulated and my formulas ready to go last Thursday so I could dump the digits in on Friday and have nice little cut-outs for the teachers ready by Monday.

Suffice it to say that the last couple of days have been pretty chill in the office
2 Since I’m already done with my grading I’ve done more wristwatch shopping (A, B) than actual teaching or grading over the last two days… which isn’t to say that I’ve been completely unproductive…
2, so Ken and I are trying to be proactive in getting out of the office and engaging students.

Oh, yeah: speaking of “chill”… though high temperatures this year had lingered late into October, it has already sharply downshifted into winter; this weekend we’re told to expect our first sub-0 temps. Just in time for Christmas.

For the most part, autumn was all about posturing myself for the winter: the kerosene heaters, term finals for course placement, prepping for the first round of university exams, and the big pre-Christmas sales on winter jackets, thermals and home insulation. Fortunately for me, though, I have a tendency to plan ahead. By mid-November my rugs were laid out, my windows sealed and sheeted, and my thermals unpacked. Looking ahead has never really been my problem. Even now as I start to prepare for my flight out to Torrance, it’s remembering to not forget about today that’s the harder part.

And perhaps that’s the trick of living any place, let alone in a place like Japan: to remember to look around as I continue to look ahead. To remember to taste of the bright seasonal fruits and flavors before they pass into a starker hue. To remember to drink in the luxurious fall colors, bask in the lingering warmth of the autumn sun before it drifts away into the high, winter sky. To remember to share a smile at the bus stop before those too disappear behind masks and scarves.

Though the threat of 0° weather is a tad… prohibitive.

Roppongi (六本木)


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We had been looking at the forecast for the weekend every day at work and, despite the bleak report, I had promised myself that I wouldn’t spend the entire weekend locked up in my heat-hovel. And after waking up at the casual hour of 10am--and only after a furious amount of Googling and japan-guide.com--I had decided to take a half-day trip into Tokyo to cross off a few more sites on my “Tourist” Bingo card by going to Roppongi and seeing
3 ”See,” not “go up,” as I was advised (repeatedly).
3 the Tokyo Tower.

Ultimately, my plan was to walk around the base of the tower and its surrounding parks and shrine and leave with enough time to make it to the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower observation deck for sunset, which was scheduled for about 4:29¥pm. I got there at around 3:00 and paid my ¥$15 to ride the elevator up the 52-stories to the observation rotunda. It was quite an amazing view and I was glad that I brought my widest lens
411-16mm Tokina.
4, but was instantly met with a huge problem: as the sun sets only once per day, do I park myself at the east-facing window, towards Tokyo Tower and Odaiba, or do I settle in on one of the benches on the west-side of the tower, to watch the sun set behind (literally behind, today) Mt. Fuji.

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I walked around the tower twice before coming to the realization that the photographic opportunities favored heavily the east-facing side as shooting into the sun is not as amazing as it would sound, at least not until the sun passes behind the mountain. Also, preliminary shots revealed that my lens was too wide, and Fuji-san too far to obtain dramatic Fuji-themed images.

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So the limitations of my equipment
5Re: “skill.”
5 dictated the terms of my shooting. At a little after 3:20, I carved out a little spot right by the window and set up for some short-term sequential shooting. Then, from about 3:58 to just shy of 5:15, I snapped up 146 shots at just-about-30-second intervals. For a first-try at time-lapse, stop-motion photography, it’s not bad. But even now I can see a half-dozen things I would do differently: there are glare-artifacts due to inadequate sealing against super-thick double-pane windows; there are exposure shifts (amateur!); and I’m not using a professional-grade compiler, so there’s considerable dithering most notable after dusk.


Even after all that I still like it. It really helps add a whole level of “texture” that mere stills fail to convey.

As always, the rest of my Roppongi images can be found on my flickr.

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Kinro Kansha no Hi

Happy December, Nick!

Today is a special day: last week may have been Thanksgiving in America
1 And since Matthew asked, I'll just note that Japan does have its own Thanksgiving on November 23rd ("Labor Thanksgiving Day," which appears to be a clever conflagration of Thanksgiving and Labor Day into one nationalistic "give thanks that for your government sponsored labor" day).
1, but December 1st signals the return of the kerosene heaters in the classrooms.

This may seem oddly specific but Japanese high school life is often dictated by such scheduled, seasonal directives: heck, on October 1st everyone was required to break out their Fall Blazers, even though it was still 24°C through Halloween.

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Well, as you could probably guess, it's no longer 24. It's been averaging around 15 or so
2 That's 59¥F°.
2, and I swear that whatever it is outside, for some reason--perhaps because all schools everywhere are soulless voids--the halls are bound to be 5¥F°s colder.

So it's quickly turning winter despite that it still feels, mentally, a little too early to be layering knowing that it will only get colder in January. But I've been taking advantage of the winter sales, buying up inexpensive thermal sets and wool socks at Uniqlo, while rounding out my Christmas/omiyage shopping
3 I feel that there's an expectation that all of the gifts I buy be "Japanes-y." Grape Mentos and Seasonal Kit-Kats for everybody!
3.

Anyway, last week was my birthday, too. Not much fanfare, but I did get a bit of alone time to explore more of Abiko (我孫子市) and watch some movies. Actually, ever since I came back from Hakone, I've had a hankering to watch me some Princess Mononoke. Unfortunately, I didn't bring any of my Ghibli DVDs with me, so I took advantage of locale and circumstance to fill out my Ghibli backlog. I was recommended to watch "The Cat Returns" ( 猫の恩返し), which was pretty good despite Ghibli's tendency for lackadaisical plot-pointing, inclusion of minute "hyper-realistic" detail, and frustratingly abrupt, unsatisfyingly-simplistic conclusions
4 Which is why I feel that Mononoke, which is a much tighter, more fluid piece, is a superior work.
4.

For no apparent reason, other than not really wanting to get out of the house, I ended up randomly deciding to watch 耳をすませば, or "Whisper of the Heart." I was shocked: characters from “The Cat's Return” pop up here and there with varying significance throughout "Whisper of the Heart" in the most cavalier of fashion. Was that the Baron I just saw? And an off the cuff reference to the cat named Moon? I believe it was! It appeared to be a Christopher Nolan style stroke of genius of the most J.J. Abrams order. Until I realized that “The Cat's Return” was released seven years after “The Whisper of the Heart” as a "spin-off."

Anyway, after I get around to watching a few more of those hard-to-get-in-America movies under my belt I'll start compiling a tiered ranking (the likes of my Pixar tree). But, until then, enjoy my Christmas Wish List (in no particular order):
  • Chipotle (guacamole!)
  • Pizza Machine (bacon bits pizza, buffalo wings)
  • The Habit (BBQ bacon cheese burger, onion rings)
  • Gengis Khan (everything in a bowl)
  • Shinsengumi Yakitori (pork belly)
  • G-Bowl (Portuguese sausage, eggs, rice, short stack
    5 The "Kevin Special."
    5)
  • Guliano's (crumbled meatball with cheese, Chinese chicken salad, Maui luau BBQ chips)

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All this to note that the last couple weeks have been pretty chill. While the 三年生s were prepping for their university entrance exams (a test, a Japanese interview, then an English review), the 二年生 students were off on their school trips
6 2A had left and returned from Torrance while the 2B-S were well on their way to Okinawa.
6 and, thusly, we were all on an abbreviated schedule for a whole week, not including the "Sports Tournament Day."

Things get back to normal this week and next. At least until Thursday, which is the start of finals for the second trimester… and Friday, which is 忘年会 ("bounenkain," literally meaning "Forget the Year Meeting"). Ken says after the winter block both our 三年生 writing protocol and our OC1 Elective session is completed (a final which we proctored yesterday), leaving us with just the 2A conversation classes twice a week for the spring trimester.

Actually, yesterday, the 1A instructor (Iwata-sensei) asked if I would start doing morning homeroom announcements with him, so I can probably count on adding the 1AΔ2A transition to my spring schedule. Which is fine: the 1A kids are nice enough. Combine that with this year's 2As revitalized interest in English
7 Traveling abroad and being capable of only limited communication has that affect on people
7 and the next few months seem to be stacking up well. I'll just have to remember to take up a hobby or two: I'll try to remember to bring my uke with me on my return flight, maybe make a move to learn something Japanese-y… like 漢字.

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Saturday, November 12, 2011

A [noun] By Any Other [noun]...

Nick,

One of the many things that I love about the Japanese language is the interesting (and often sophomorically hilarious) ways that its intricate orthographic system confounds consistent meaning. I'm told that a lot of this has to do with kanji, so let's start there.

Kanji
1 As Wikipedia tells me.
1 is a "logographic" writing system adopted from Chinese hanzi characters imported through cultural trade during the Han Dynasty around 57AD. Later, this complicated system of emblematic pictographs was simplified. Around the 9th century, industrious women poets--though banned from formal education, including instruction on the complex hanzi writing system--recognized how stupid it was to have one symbol for every single word in your language and so settled into the 46-character syllabary system that we know as hiragana.

Anyway, just as the logographs of kanji were inherited from it's Chinese hanzi parent, so too were the Chinese hanzi pronunciation. Today, this category of kanji-pronunciation is commonly known as "on'yomi" (音読み), or "on" pronunciation.

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Problem Number 1:

As there are nearly twice as many sounds in the Chinese linguistic syllabary, many of the possible Chinese pronunciations were lost or conflagrated into the Japanese speaking system
2 Mary Noguchi writes, "When Japan imported kanji wholesale from China, the Chinese pronunciations of kanji words were transliterated into the narrower range of the Japanese phonetic system; the result was a great number of compound words with the same pronunciation." "Kanji Clinic #24: Is there any relief from Japanese homophone headaches?" The Japan Times, 9 Aug. 2002, <http://www.kanjiclinic.com/kc24final.htm>. Pinyin.info suggests that Chinese has 410 distinct syllable sounds, while Japanese has only 349, and cites a study that reports that Japanese has three-times more homophones than those found in Chinese.
2.

Not satisfied with these proliferating approximate (and overlapping) pronunciations--and probably just as disenchanted the notion of maintaining cultural dependencies upon China--Japan, doing what Japan does best, created a "Japanese" style of reading kanji: the "kun'yomi" (訓読み) method. No longer would the Japanese writing system be tied directly to the Chinese language. Instead, all conscripted kanji would be given over to the Japanese lexicon. Let me explain…

[I will use the "for instance" that Wikipedia uses because it's a good one.]

Take, for instance, the kanji for "east," as represented by 東. The on-yomi (Chinese) pronunciation of this logograph is "tou" (とう). Lo and behold, may it be said, that long before Japan adopted the "tou" logograph (東), Japan already had a word for "east" (that being "higashi": ひがし
3 Let it actually be said that Japan had TWO words for "east," higashi and azuma (あずま), so frustration over why they needed a third is quite understandable.
3). Thusly, these additional "kun" readings were later appended to the range of any kanji's readings, not ever fully replacing the original “on” reading.

This means, though most kanji have one specific locus of meaning, there is a nexus of pronunciations tied to each logographic pole, often only known through contextual expression: when by itself, 東, as an “ideogram” (指事文字: しじもじ: Shiji-moji), is almost always pronounced using the kun expression "higashi,” but will often be seen tied to a secondary figure that activates a secondary reading. One such example is when 東 is bound to the “kyou” (京) kanji, forming the compound "東京", which, of course, is the kanji for Tokyo, thusly requiring us to read 東 using the original on-yomi pronunciation.

This polyphony of sign:signified readings, however, is where we get the interesting system of Japanese "abbreviation."

Let's take 柏市立柏高等学校 (Kahiwashiritsu Kashiwa Koukou), which is roughly translated as "Kashiwa-City Municipal Kashiwa High School
4 This would be akin to "Torrance Unified School District Torrance High School.”
4." Now, much like how Westerners love giving beautiful, ornate names to institutions and buildings only to subsequently hate pronouncing all of those fancy syllables, Japanese people also do this. While we would normally crop words like "Torrance High School" into something more manageable by pressing words into acronyms based on initials--like "T.H.S."--kanji compounds would be pared down to their more essential pieces. In this case to 市 (designating the type of school: Municipal or "city funded"--versus private or prefectural--from "柏市立") and its location, 柏 (Kashiwa), omitting the values of "高等学校" (high school) as assumed. This leaves us with "市柏". Now that these characters are freed from their original contextual confines, we can talk about reinterpreting the logographs.

No longer appended to the locative “city” kanji (柏市 - Kashiwa-shi, or "Kashiwa city"), 市 is no longer bound to its dependent
5 Re: serving as a modifier.
5 "on" reading ("shi") but is given over to its "kun" (native) reading as an independent logograph, which is "ichi," giving us "Ichi-Kashi(wa)" instead of "Shi-Kashi." Sometimes 立 (りつ: ”ritsu”) is included in this “abbreviation” (市立柏), but it is not as common.

This happens all over Japan. Even "Nikon" is a cropped compound derived from their founding name, 日本古学 (Japanese Optical): 日(本)古(学) [+ (Zeiss) Ikon].

As a side note, I think this is where we get "Nichigobu" at G.V.B.C.

I know we've spent many years trying to figure out where this comes from (of course, never once asking a Japanese person to spell it out for us). I figure that the original name was "Japanese Language Service," or "日本語部(門) (部門 being a guess meaning "department,” “branch," or "section", though Kotoba! suggests that there are 5 additional common kanji with either on or kun pronunciations of "bu"). This, following the above logic, 日本 can then easily be surmised as 日 (now read with the kun reading "nichi", for "day") as "日語部”, or "にちごぶ" (Nichigobu).

Currently, there are 6,355 accepted Kanji in existence (while only 2,136 are considered "standard"
6 常用漢字 (Jouyou Kanji) - the "regular use" kanji characters modified from the 東洋医学 (Touyou Kanji) list established post World War II, restricting the number of kanji that can be used in newspapers.
6) with a countless number of available readings. Logically, multiple available pronunciations eventually lead to divergent uses meaning that each character is quite flexible in its use.

For example, 行 can be used as the verb meaning "to go" (いき), a verb meaning "bound for" [ゆき], a verb meaning "to perform" (おこなう), or even act as a noun to represent "lines of writing" (ぎょう). This problem of homographs, one character with multiple possible readings, which we’ll call “Problem Number 1.2,” is the sort of linguistic charm that I would normally find fascinating, were it not emblematic of the problem of Japanese homophones in general.

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Problem Number 2:

Jack Halpern, CEO of the CJK Dictionary Institute, notes that one can say that "Japanese orthography is so highly irregular that it can be considered, without the slightest fear of being accused of hyperbole, to be a couple of orders of magnitude more complex and more irregular than any other major language, Chinese included
7 Halpern, Jack. "The Complexities of Japanese Homophones." cjk.org, 23 Jun. 2001, <http://www.cjk.org/cjk/reference/japhom.htm>.
7.” His argument that Japanese (writing in particular, but the language in general) suffers from an extremely over-prevalent use of homophones. That while Japanese words, often distinguishable by sight on text, are often ambiguous and usage evident based only on context.

This is an inverse of the problem above: while one kanji character can have a seemingly infinite number of pronunciations linked to the logograph. As is the case with all homophones (such as “there,” “their,” and “they’re”) for the most part, the words sound the same: in Japanese, pronunciations overlap, differing only slightly from others by degrees of emphasis or aspiration or even by bounds
8 Such as 硬い, 堅い, and 固い, all are pronounced “katai” (かたい), meaning "hard," while “seikou” (せいこう) has more than twelve disparate meanings, among them being "success" 成功, "steel manufacture" 製鋼, "western suburbs" 西郊 and "sexual intercourse" 性交.
8. Jack Halpern offers an interesting example in his introduction, using the phrase "ひのささないやしき" ("A Mansion with no Sunshine"), where he offers 12 different though equally acceptable translations, compounded by the fact that none of six "professional translators and writers" matched the "standard" form suggested by dictionaries.

So, as a new-speaker, how are you to know whether your friend is talking about a flower or a nose, both pronounced "hana" (はな: 花, 鼻)? Or whether it is a bridge, the edge, or chopsticks that are the topic of conversation (“hashi,” はし: 橋, 端, 箸)? Save for context, you can't, really. Every context has an appropriate interpretation and though, maybe contradictory on its surface, is really a truer expression of the concept signified.

In Japan, the balancing of ambiguity (and shades of contradiction) within contextual appropriateness is key to maintaining the function of society: it is the belief that one has a face appropriate for every situation. These are often distilled into two categories: a public/explicit face (the おもて: “omote”) and a private/implicit face (うら: “ura”). While in America, we would posit that two separate and divergent personas is inconsistent and insincere--where who we are is a sum of our disparate parts in unity that must agree and align like concentric circles of revelation around a singular ideological pole--in Japan, a "public" and "private" face that are nothing alike is hardly contradictory and can be quite admirable.

The belief is that by effecting a construct in public, you are not "pretending to be who you are not" for duplicitous personal gain, but, rather, serving a societal/political function. You are agreeing to submit parts of yourself for the purpose of cohabitation and success. We would call that "etiquette," or even “civility.”

The interesting aspect of the omote/ura dichotomy is that these faces are contextually driven: that your ura can be whatever you want it to be as long as your omote is in place when it is expected.

So you can be whoever you want to be when you're at the bar or in the red light district, as long as you are in your chair when the bell rings, wearing a dress shirt and tie. However, this also creates a fascinating dichotomy in which a person's "public life" is not at all impacted by his "private doings." That a businessman can be publicly inebriated after a "business party" is completely acceptable (and often times expected), and does not negatively impact his reputation amongst his colleagues as long as he does not appear at work inebriated.

While in America, it would be assumed that a remarkable business man who gets so drunk on a Tuesday after work that he is literally stumbling out of a hamburger restaurant has personal issues that will inevitably interfere with his ability to function at work (as well as reflect negatively upon the company that hires him), in Japan, the two faces are assumedly both true (that he is both a capable worker AND a lush), and should be seen as a fuller expression of who he is, rather than a contradiction.

Omote extends to virtually all public forms of society: almost as important as being "competent" is looking as if you are competent, and much of the system is based upon one’s ability to “appear” competent more than actual competence. Not, so much, that one is judged by his appearance, but by his ability to appropriate the correct signs for the context (a tie and dress shirt, riding leathers and matching helmet, etc.).

Though it is easy to see how and why the omote has it’s value, alas, it is difficult to see when the ura is allowed to find expression, or if it even has a place in the public space. But even within the two months I’ve spent in Japan has revealed that, though it may rub my Western sensibilities the wrong way and will always be difficult as an outsider to read and understand, the subtleties of personal expression are there; especially at a high school, where the students have not yet fully bought in to the value of the omote.

And, even then this is not to say that the teachers in the room are not merely a collection of suits, ties and indoor shoes. Sometimes it can appear that the amount of personal submission required to function in the public space is a tad overblown, and, really, the omote provides a framework for social stability that leaves just enough space for personal expression. That within the rigid structures there is enough ambiguity and subtlety in aspiration that provides for polyphony of expressions, if you’re attuned to the aspiration and the context. Which is refreshing to me because, even though from the outside much of it looks exactly the same, eventually--even to me--there will become a perceptible difference between 紙, 髪, and 神 (かみ: “kami” - paper, hair, and spirit).

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Bunka no Hi

While in Shinjuku on some business last Thursday, I happened into a cozy little bar a stone's throw away from Shinjuku Station
1 新宿駅, which happens to be the busiest train station in the world (Guinness approved: the recored people, not the beer).
1. The warm patter of laughter drifted across the otherwise empty streets as pedestrians and bikers alike criss-crossed down the street like an indifferent autumn breeze. Tempted by the warm glow of the wall-mounted plasma screen and the affable bar tender's constant stream of conversation, I demurely ambled across the street and was beckoned to a seat at the bar and gladly settled in, even though I was only able to understand about 25% of the conversation on hand (50% if you counted "inference" as "understanding" and maybe just 10% if questions were addressed directly to me, it would seem). I had almost forgotten what it was like to sit in front of the warm glow of the TV, make idle small talk, and genuinely hang out with the guys.

Suffice it to say that, when Ken asked if I wanted to snag a dinner in Kashiwa before he headed out to Tokyo a few days later, I figured it would be a great opportunity to check out Hub Pub, a favorite local sports bar. Though, as far as timing went, the scene was a little dead: not that it was empty, no; maybe 1/4 to 1/2 full, and there was some J-League playoff game dominating all 8 screens (in curiously non-HD quality), but there were mostly private parties or TV gawkers. Now, I wasn't expecting anything on the level of Cheers, but after a short mug of Bass, I more than had my fill and wound my way back home to finish season 3 of Breaking Bad.

Anyway, as I was saying, I was in Tokyo to commemorate Bunka no Hi (文化の日), or Culture Day
2 Celebrated every November 3rd in honor of the signing of the Post-War Japanese Constitution (signed on November 3, 1946) to promote Japanese culture, art and academic endeavour.
2. With a whole day off and no plans, I did what any sensible foreigner would do: hit up Google. In no time I had a schedule of possible activities, from parades and performances in Asakusa (浅草) to upscale kabuki performances in Tokyo (東京), I had a veritable cultural potpourri to pick from. I decided on hitting up the annual "Martial Arts Performances to Honour the Deities" at Meiji Shrine (明治神宮). I mean, what's cooler than Aikido performances, Kobudo ("old-style martial arts and fire-arms") exhibits and the "All Japan archery tournament"? Well, 流鏑馬
3 Yabusame, or 13th C. (Kamakura) "horseback archery".
3, for one.


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Archers--regaled in traditional silks, skins and crests--ride at a gallop pace down a 100 yard channel, draw his bow, fire at one target 40 yards from the start, reload, draw, and then fire, again, at a second target maybe some 60 yards from the first
4 Think "Ashitaka" in Princess Mononoke (もののけ姫)… Can you believe that movies was made in 1997?
4. Despite waking up late and arriving in Harajuku (原宿) at a little before 12, I found myself a snug little corner at the front edge of the SRO groupings mid-way between the two targets. But at 50 yards in, this meant that I was a touch too far to get good shots of the rider barreling down towards the first target, and too early for good shots of the archer drawing up for the second shot, but, even then, it was amazing to see. (Again, all of my pictures from Bunka no Hi can be found on my flickr.)

Okay, okay: so I'll admit that Yabusame was only a part of the reason why I wanted to head down to Harajuku. Yes, it was a BIG part of it, but so was this deal I saw at MapCamera.com, a large used-camera reseller in Shinjuku. And, in keeping with my tradition of respecting each and every Japanese Holiday (…with as little rest and as much travel as possible and…) by spending a ton of cash frivolously, I inevitably came home with this:

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A lovingly used Nikkor 28mm AF f/2.8: a more appropriate "portrait" lens for my D7000 (though it is probably more technically correct to call it a "wide angle" lens, with the cropped sensor, I think the 28-35mm is the a representative portrait equivalent to the film standard 50mm).

Wish me "bon voyage" with the new glass! I'm sure you'll see plenty of it.

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Nikko no Koyo

It's been a long time coming, but I finally got around to processing those shots of my apartment.

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It's a pretty good set up: two bedrooms, one full bath, "3/4"-kitchen with an attached living room. It's a good size for two friends, a little small for three (maybe a tad small for two strangers, I guess), but workable.

And yet, as nice as it is, it's not place to spend an extended weekend! That's what Nikko's for!

–––––––––– 日光 – Nikko ––––––––––

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Nikko, the home of one of Japan's lavishly decorated Toshogu Shrine, is the town at the entrance to Nikko National Park. However, it wasn't the shrines that interested me (this time, at least), but the scenic Okunikko area around Lake Chuzenji (中禅寺湖 - ちゅぜんじこ), and the seasonal autumn colors (こよ).

It was a bit of a gamble, I'll admit, as reports were mixed regarding the color density, not even to make mention of the historical unreliability of Japanese weather forecasts. At ¥1,300
1 That's ¥$13 x 2: exorbitant in that the rail-system is the reason why every Japanese person should explore Japan more often but doesn't because it costs too much.
1 each way–which does not include the ¥$20 transit bus fare to and from Lake Chuzenji and does not including all of the standard temple/attraction fees, local bus fees, and cost of eating–it would be quite an expensive risk to take on "50%" chance of rain, especially with the seasonally late progression in autumn coloring.

And yet there was no better opportunity to go (re: "non-weekend travel benefits") than last Monday. By all accounts, the trees around Chuzenji had reached peak-coloring, but the weekend's earlier rains had felled all of the less hardy (and more colorful) leaves from the deciduous trees, leaving a moist pallet of browns, yellows, oranges and ever-greens, with only a smattering of newly-turned bright red maples.

Nevertheless, I would not be deterred: it had taken 120 minutes by Tobu-Express and an extra 90 minutes by Tobu-bus (from Nikko). I was going to see some leaves!

Despite leaving my apartment at just before 6:30 am, I didn’t arrive at Chuzenji until a little after 11. By then, a heavy drizzle had settled into the volcanic crater, but looked to lift by mid-afternoon. Still unsure, I picked up a ¥600 umbrella, but ended up with a few stray water-spots on the lens anyway. It more-or-less cleared up on schedule, but the clouds persisted, trapped in the basin, continuing to pour over the southern side of the lake, limiting the visibility (and photographic opportunities) of the more colorful mountain-shadow trees.

Apart from the two "famous" waterfalls
2 I swear, everything in Japan is "famous."
2–the Kegon (華厳の滝) and Ryuzu (竜頭の滝 - "Dragon Head") falls were quite impressive–I made it a point to walk to at least half-way around the lake past Chuzenji Temple (a nifty little stop, if not a tad expensive at ¥$5), and at least put my soles on the iconic finger-peninsula.

Actually, I don’t mean to short-shift either Kegon or Ryuzu falls, as both are seemingly a necessity for any pilgrimage to Nikko for koyo, but if I had to recommend one thing more to “truly” get the sense of a Nikko-experience, it’s the Chuzenji Temple. Built right into the mountainside with a majestic overview of the lake, Chuzenji Temple offers a synergistic contrast in nature and architecture. Besides its view, one of the main attractions of the Chuzenji Temple is its Tachiki Kannon, a centuries-old statue carved directly into the stump of an ancient tree whose roots are still burrowed deep into the mountain face.

Forgoing lunch, I completed my simple-circuit by around 4 pm, but as Japan has yet to discover the joys of Daylight Savings, I knew that with the heavy cloud cover it was going to get dark within the end of the hour, pretty much dashing any faint hopes I had of either walking the Nikko Abyss or any of the smaller shrines back in Nikko proper.

It ended up taking around 2 hours for the bus to wind its way back down the mountain (bring a good playlist: there’s a lot of bus involved along the Irohazaka Winding Road
3 Interesting to note, Japan-Guide reports that this once-48-turn road (now “just” 30) was named after an ancient acrostic poem that utilized all 48 characters of the Japanese syllabary just once.
3), so by the time I made it back to Nikko, all of the omiyage shops were closed. In fact, the only place that was opened was this mediocre yaki-tori shop called Happori Dako, which, apparently, is well featured by tourists on Lonely Planet. If I had to guess why, this is the only place in Nikko that stays open late enough for tourists on their way out of town.

Good portion sizes, but that’s about it. Certainly highly edible, but beyond that I make no guarantees.

As always, the rest of my photos from Nikko (and my apartment) can be found on my flickr.

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Post Script for you future travelers: be sure to abide by the Tobu-line timetables as the last train leaves Nikko before 8 pm
4 You definitely wouldn't want to be stranded there over night, that's for sure.
4.

Additionally, the last two "rapid" services leave from Shimo-Imaichi (下今市駅 - しもいまいち - the junction you have to use to get back to Tokyo) at 5:05 and 6:21 pm, meaning that any train you catch after that is a "limited express," which is "reservation only" (read: "¥1,000 reservation fee"). This is certainly a bit of a “gotcha” as it was pretty much me and 3 other people on the train at the time. But when they “gotcha,” they certainly got-cha.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Opening Ceremony

One of the classes I took in grad school was a course on James Joyce’s Ulysses. That’s 16 weeks on just one text. Well, technically one “text” and three “readers.”

It was most certainly one of the more involved classes I have ever been in, as Ulysses is renown for the intricate interweaving of avant-garde stream-of-consciousness narratives around a well-cataloged anchor of history.

Admittedly, I probably should have tried harder in that class, but James Joyce was so far out of my specialty that even just signing up for the class felt like I was going above and beyond the call of duty. I don’t remember much from the class
1 Well, besides two or three chapters involving S&M “subversion play.”
1, but what I do remember is the theme of “parallax.” The idea that multiple perspectives, despite the often disparate cacophony of voices, offer a fuller, more intriguing picture of a person or place than just one view can offer (and distort).

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A bunch of the teachers went out to dinner last Friday where I got into a short conversation about how I was liking my stay at Ichikashi. When I said that I was loving it, the teacher (who is also new) gave me this look… “How about you,” I asked, interest piqued, “things aren’t going well?”

Japanese high schools, unlike American high schools, are elective. Because attendance is voluntary, there are often many reasons why a student would elect to attend high school. The most obvious reason is “continuing education,” of course, though, for many of the students, they are not planning on matriculating through to college. While a college degree may ensure at least an important introduction and a cursory glance at a “company man” position, even having a high school diploma is a marked competitive advantage over not one in such a decidedly service-oriented local economy.

Even for students who have their sights set on going to college, because matriculation is dependent upon testing into the university of their choice
2 Rather than an application packet.
2, there is little emphasis placed on maintaining academic rigor throughout the three years of high school, except that it may eventually improve one’s test score.

As such, very little emphasis is placed on in-class grading (or even attendance), and so there remains no “academic standard” that is required for extracurricular participation in speech contests, clubs or sports. So, while maybe disingenuous in America, the notion of academic standards does suggest, at its core, that secondary education institutions exist for the purpose of education. By requiring a minimum GPA, policy implies that the emphasis of high school is academics and that all other campus activities are subservient (and should not be a detriment) to that.

It is not uncommon, therefore, to have students attend high school for a number of purposes
3 Existential as well as teleological.
3, with vastly disparate interest in academic endeavor.

Ichikashi itself is a pretty big school. The school carries the standard three grades [grade-one—一年生 (ichi-nensei)—is the equivalent age of an American sophomore, while grade-three—三年生 (san-nensei)—students are seniors], which are divided into 10 or so home rooms ranked and sorted by test scores and “declared realms of emphasis”: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I and S
4 S = “sports.”
4.

As a special employee, contracted to teach higher-level English, I am assigned the top 三年生 and the top two classes of 二年生 (those going to North High for an exchange program).

My friend, on the other hand, spends a little bit of time with the higher level of 一年生, but also is tasked with the bulk of instructing 1-E, F, G, H, I and S in their mandatory English classes.

For the most part, they don’t appear to be unruly—that would be one thing—but, rather, they are hardly ever awake. Because their interests lie in other fields (mostly club activities, sports, and the like), and because these other interests require so much of their time, there is hardly room in their lives for academic investment. They come to school early for 6 AM practices, serve their lunch period at noon-time practice, and then stay late after school for 4 PM practice, often times not leaving school until around 6 or 7 for the one hour bike ride home.

If the sole goal of Japanese High Schools was purely academic, this would be seen as a major problem, but it doesn’t appear to be a big issue, at least in Ichikashi. After all, Ichikashi boasts one of the top baseball and soccer programs in the prefecture, one of the top high school judo competitors, the number one bowler in all of Japan (not even just “for her age group,” but amongst all of Japan), and one of the best high school brass bands in the nation:


That’s the Ichikashi Brass Band
5 And yes, they were playing while laying on the ground. Where’s your commitment, Aaron?
5. Ken says that they’ve really stepped up their game since he first arrived. In the past, they’ve always been known for being superbly technical, but in order to become nationally acclaimed, they must focus on their showmanship. Dutifully so, their last four performances (including the 4 songs they performed at Bunkasai, the one marching performance at Taiikusai, and the mini-musical performance earlier this morning before their Pirates of the Caribbean medley) have all focused on stage work and choreography, which are always just a few ounces of glitter shy of “dazzle.”

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That medley was a piece performed strictly for the Opening Ceremony of Ichikashi’s new sports complex (a large two-floor gym with a pseudo-indoor track and attached pool). Who knows how many hours of practice they committed to for that 8-minute performance that was only going to be seen by the Ichikashi student body and maybe 60-odd city dignitaries. It is unlikely that they will use that piece for any regional or national competitions, but that’s how things go around here.

That isn’t to say that nobody at Ichikashi cares about academics, otherwise they wouldn’t privately contract my teaching exchange program. In fact, just yesterday, two of our students won the Kashiwa regional English Language Speech Contest, and we’ll be spending the next month helping them prepare for the prefectural level.

That being said, our 2A students are preparing for their November 15th North High Exchange. Be sure to say hi.

Friday, September 30, 2011

Taiikusai

The arrival of autumn is always an important social event for any agrarian culture. Usually accompanied by brisk, early sunsets and homecoming football, the arrival of the Autumnal Equinox marks the changing of attitudes as much as the changing of the season, as the sweet, sleepy smell of farmers’ field fires and good-luck incense settles in a ring around the city of Kashiwa, and in a mind-numbing haze over Ichikashi
1 For the record, its full name is 柏市立柏高等学校, “Kashiwa Municipal Kashiwa Senior High School,” which is colloquially shortened to “Ichikashi.” Much like how Boston College should really be “Boston College University (3 miles East of Boston) in Chestnut Hill, Mass.” But it’s not.
1.

Now Ichikashi doesn’t do homecoming (neither the game nor dance).

Likewise, it probably won’t surprise you to hear that, in not so much a Footloose-ian fashion, they don’t do very many social events at all, and certainly no dances of any kind
2 Then again, if I think about it, they don’t even do “sports” right: these sports “clubs” (just one team: no JV or developmental squads) practice all year for one tournament (no league play), with very little student body support.
2. Then again, Ichikashi, like every other high school in Japan, does Bunkasai and Taiikusai.

Anyway, where was I? Oh, yes: the sweet smell of autumn incense from the nearby farms settled heavily over the field.

To call it a field would be generous. It was a hard packed dirt lot, painstakingly lined with chalk and meticulously maintained by hand to be free of weeds and dust. It is almost the complete ideological opposite of any notion of a “field,” in that sense. But if it’s good enough for the soccer team to play on, it’s certainly good enough for Taiikusai. And probably cost-effective
3 Then again, again, this is also a school system that has the kids clean the campus every day after 6th period.
3.

Taiikusai consisted of three teams semi-arbitrarily divided up into even teams with equal grade representation battling it out over numbers physical challenges of dubious design and contemplation. Games like 200/400m mixed gender relay races, obstacle courses, tug-of-war, camp-style food and drinking challenges, as well as a couple of fairly brutal climbing, grabbing and pulling games (all of which can be found visually represented on my Flickr, as always).

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I’m not terribly sure what the point of Taiikusai is. It was never explained to me, just that every school does it, despite the fact
4 Or maybe “because of the fact.”
4 that half, if not most, of the games would never be allowed to be played in America either on the grounds that they are too dangerous or slightly sexist in the division of tasks.

Despite all that, it looked like the kids had a lot of fun. Except Menzai, who had a broken foot and couldn’t play. Or Kazuyoshi, who ate curry for breakfast and then had to eat it again after his leg of the relay. Or Hakuto, who looked like he was mad at me, but I swear he really wasn’t.

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This past week I’ve also started my Japanese lessons. My tutor has me reading through some rudimentary introductory phrase books. What I really think is really holding me back, at this point at least, is my combination of lack of “natural” vocabulary (the kind where you look at something and you know the dialect-word for it, rather than translations
5 The ol’ semiotic exercise of seeing a tree and thinking “木,” rather than seeing a tree and thinking “tree -> 木.”
5), and my lack of general grammatical understanding. Interestingly, my interest in learning Kanji far outstrips my interest in reading my grammar lesson book. Maybe it’s my combined desire to be able to order off of a menu (finally) while simultaneously acquiring vocabulary
6 Though it is completely possible to study Kanji and never once use any Japanese words
6, or it could just be that vocabulary is more interesting to me than particles and S-O-V constructions.

Oh, and one more thing, Nick, today was my welcome party; the theme of which was, of course, to get drunk. Their game, of course, was to get me drunk. My game was, of course, to not.

I was conveniently seated between the Principal and the Dean of Students (who also moonlights as the Kendo instructor). I was complimented by both for my enthusiasm, my 頑張る attitude, and my efforts to learn everything I can about Japan and Japanese. Of course, the conversation shifted to what extracurricular activities I am interested in. I was also asked, independently of each other, what clubs I would (of course) be interested in joining. Of course, I said “Kendo” (which made Goto-sensei VERY happy), but also mentioned judo. It appears that I have an “in,” administratively, if I ever get the gumption to try. Or at least find the time.

I’ve been spending all of my time helping students prepare speeches for the Chiba Prefectural Speech and Recitation competition next week, as well as lead the English Conversation club (from the seat of my pants, may I mention).

And, finally, lest I forget: お誕生日おめでとう。